Irresistible Sparkle: Proven Guide to Best Diamond Cuts

Diamonds stay timeless – oddly enough, their shapes don’t. One decade it’s the sleek geometric lines of an Art Deco emerald cut, next up is the resurgence of the pear-shaped diamond – the very shape Carrie Bradshaw recoiled from when Aidan proposed in Sex and the City.

Yes, and the story of diamond cuts is a century-spanning drama filled with timeless classics and trendsetting comebacks. In the 1910s, a well-cut diamond meant an Old European or mine cut stone sparkling under gaslight. Fast forward to 2025, and you might find your favorite celebrity flaunting a bold marquise or an elongated cushion on Instagram. It’s a dazzling journey through time and taste, and it proves one thing: each generation reinvents the diamond in its own image.

My take in a nutshell? Trends come and go, but every cut – from antique to avant-garde – carries the legacy of brilliance and innovation.

The Evolution of Diamond Cuts: From Point to Brilliance

Evolution of diamond cuts from the primitive point cut to the pre-Tolkowsky Old European cut. Early diamonds were just polished natural crystals until faceting techniques blossomed in the Late Middle Ages.

To appreciate today’s trends, let’s first step back into history. The practical art of diamond cutting began in the Middle Ages, when early cutters simply polished the rough, often preserving its natural octahedral shape. Imagine a diamond in the rough, just shaved a bit to add shine. I’ve even worked on a few myself – photos of those pieces are below.

Interestingly, that octahedral silhouette – also known as the table cut – is still used in jewelry today. You’ll find it in bold signet rings and Victorian-style mourning pieces. 

By the 14th century, faceting began to evolve in Europe. Over time, more complex cuts were developed to coax brilliance from the crystal. From point cut to table cut, rose cut, and eventually the Old European cut – each step added light, symmetry, and fire. I once encountered an original Old European cut in Russia, while redesigning a client’s heirloom ring that had belonged to her grandmother. It’s remarkable how much story can live inside a single cut.

1919. Round Brilliant cut by Marcel Tolkowsky

The single biggest leap came in 1919, when Belgian mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the optimal proportions for the Round Brilliant cut. Tolkowsky essentially cracked the code for maximum sparkle, and his round brilliant (with 57–58 facets) set a new standard. In fact, the Round Brilliant has enjoyed everlasting popularity since its formal introduction in 1919. To this day, no other shape can quite match the round’s balance of brilliance and scintillation, which is why it consistently ranks among the top choices worldwide. The round cut’s dominance is so strong that by 2025, more than half of all engagement rings sold feature a round diamond. That’s a testament to how well Tolkowsky’s “ideal” has stood the test of time.

Fancy Cut

Other cuts each have their own origin stories and eras of glory. The emerald cut (a rectangular step-cut) and the squarish Asscher cut rose to fame in the Art Deco 1920s, when society craved clean lines and geometric flair. In that Gatsby era, diamonds with parallel facets and elegant symmetry perfectly matched the zeitgeist. Today, the brand Artemer masterfully uses Art Deco-style geometry in its designs.

Meanwhile, the marquise cut has perhaps the juiciest backstory: it was first commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who allegedly wanted a diamond shaped like the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. Created in the mid-18th century and also known as the navette (“little boat”) cut, the marquise is essentially a stretched oval with pointed ends – regal, elongated, and utterly distinctive. Even the whimsical heart-shaped diamond isn’t a modern invention; it dates back to at least the 16th century. And the popular pear shape (teardrop) has surprising longevity as well: a version of it existed by the 1400s thanks to Flemish cutters.

By the late 20th century, innovation in cutting accelerated with technology. Lasers and computer modeling began enabling cuts of unprecedented complexity. New shapes emerged, often branded by their creators – from the Princess cut (formally introduced in 1979 by Betzalel Ambar and colleagues), with its sharp-edged modern look, to the Radiant cut (a 1970s hybrid of brilliant and step cuts), and many more. Yes, and the science of sparkle kept advancing: in 2005 the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) introduced a new diamond cut grading system to better quantify a cut’s quality (Clark, IGS, 2021). This was revolutionary because it moved beyond simply judging how close a stone came to “ideal” proportions – instead, it evaluates how a diamond’s facet arrangement actually performs in terms of light return and pattern. Today, a GIA report will grade a diamond’s cut from Excellent down to Poor, reflecting its brilliance and fire. In short, we’ve come a long way from the days of one-size-fits-all cuts; modern gem cutters blend art, math, and technology to create diamonds that shine brighter and waste less of the rough stone than ever before.

Cut to the Chase: What’s Trending Now?

If the history above represents the “greatest hits” of diamond cutting, what’s topping the charts today? The answer: a little bit of everything – and a whole lot of individuality. We live in an era where engagement ring choices reflect personal style as much as tradition. Still, some cuts clearly lead the pack – online, in stores, and on celebrity hands.

Round Brilliants

Round brilliants remain the undisputed queen of engagement rings – classic, versatile, and maximally sparkly. They’ve held the #1 spot in global diamond sales for decades (Frontiere, IGS, 2025). It’s the “safe bet” that never goes out of style. But even royalty can be outshined…

Oval Cuts

Since around 2018, oval-cut diamonds have surged in popularity – thanks in part to A-list engagements. Hailey Bieber, Blake Lively, Kate Middleton, and Olivia Culpo all said “yes” to ovals. The cut flatters the finger and often looks larger than a round of the same carat weight – making it a smart choice with serious sparkle (Rello Duffy & Hoffower, Brides, 2025).

Marquise Cuts

Hot on the oval’s heels is the marquise cut – a shape once linked to 18th-century glamour, now enjoying a full-blown revival. When Selena Gomez flashed her marquise engagement ring in 2024, interest soared. Its elongated silhouette flatters the hand and adds a dose of vintage drama.

Bonus style tip: Many opt for east-west settings – turning the marquise horizontally for a fresh, modern edge. I loooove this one!

Watch out: Poorly cut marquises can show a visible “bow-tie” shadow across the center – a risk shared by most elongated brilliants (ovals, pears, etc.). Some find the bow-tie charming, others don’t – but either way, cut precision matters.

Pear Shapes

Pear-shaped diamonds – once seen as old-fashioned – are back with a romantic vengeance. Their teardrop silhouette, blending oval and marquise, feels soft, feminine, and delicately dramatic. It’s no longer the shape Carrie Bradshaw recoiled from on Sex and the City – it’s the choice of brides seeking vintage allure with a twist.

Cushion Cuts

Soft-square cushion cuts – beloved in the 19th century – have roared back to life. Vintage lovers and modern minimalists alike are drawn to their rounded corners and warm sparkle. Plus, they often cost less than round brilliants of similar size and quality – because cutters can retain more of the original rough stone (Frontiere, IGS, 2025).

That’s true for many fancy shapes: ovals, princess, radiant, Asscher – all typically come at a lower price-per-carat than rounds.

Fancy Shapes

Choosing a fancy cut isn’t just about budget – it’s a way to express character. A round is timeless, yes, but a rectangular radiant, a quirky Asscher, or a chunky old mine cut might just feel more you. That’s the real trend of the decade: diamonds that reflect personality, not just tradition.

2025 trends

What’s particularly trending in 2025? Elongation and proportion are the buzzwords. Jewelers report that elongated versions of traditionally square cuts are in high demand – think elongated cushion cuts and long, rectangular radiants that create a dramatic look on the finger. “Pay attention to stones with non-sharp corners!” one Los Angeles jeweler advises in a viral TikTok clip, highlighting how elongated cushions combine soft edges with a flattering length. Similarly, slim radiant cuts (which blend the sparkle of a round with an emerald-cut outline) are having a moment. They give a brilliant crushed-ice sparkle but with a fresh silhouette that stands out from the crowd. Yes, but hard sales data on these micro-trends can be elusive – much of this comes from social media buzz rather than official surveys. Still, browse any jewelry influencer’s feed and you’ll see it: 2025 is all about those elegant, lengthened shapes that draw the eye along the hand.

And lest we forget, the classics are still cherished. The emerald cut, with its hall-of-mirrors clarity, remains a favorite for its understated elegance – the kind chosen by style icons from Grace Kelly to Beyoncé. The Asscher cut (essentially a square emerald cut) appeals to old-soul types who love its Deco-era symmetry and flash of white light. Even the playful heart shape finds its fans (a heart-cut pink diamond, anyone?). In the end, your perfect diamond might be trend-forward or unabashedly traditional. The good news is you have options aplenty, and none are going out of style any time soon.

What Nobody Tells You About Diamond Cuts

Even with all the articles and guides out there, some facets of diamond cuts (pun intended) get glossed over. Let’s pull back the curtain on a few lesser-known truths:

• Bigger and More Affordable? Yes, Please. Here’s a sparkling secret: fancy shapes can give you more bling for your buck. Unlike rounds, many fancy cuts (oval, marquise, pear, princess, etc.) utilize a rough diamond more efficiently, meaning you pay less per carat and often get a larger-looking stone. A well-cut oval or marquise, for example, can appear much larger face-up than a round of equal weight, thanks to their elongated silhouettes. The jewelry industry doesn’t always shout about this, but savvy shoppers know to compare prices and sizes across shapes.
  
• Beware the Bow-Tie and Fragile Corners. Trendy shapes come with quirks. Ever noticed a dark shadow across an oval or marquise diamond? That’s the infamous “bow-tie” effect, caused by light not bouncing back up in the center. A faint bow-tie is normal, but a heavy one can make a stone look dull. And those sharp corners on princess or heart cuts? Yes, but they can be chip magnets. Prong settings and protective bezels exist for a reason – no one wants a missing tip on their treasured gem. So when you chase that hot new cut, keep the practical in mind along with the pretty. A good jeweler will help you navigate these issues (and perhaps suggest slightly tweaking a cut for durability, like adding French tips on a marquise’s points).
  
• Not Every “Popular” Cut is Actually Popular. Industry insiders whisper that some cuts universally lauded in magazines have quietly fallen out of favor on the shop floor. For instance, the once-beloved Princess cut – invented in the disco era and second only to round in sales for years – has seen dwindling interest lately. One TikTok-famous gemologist, Tia (@tiamogemco), revealed that in her high-volume custom business, cushion, princess, and Asscher cuts are among the least requested shapes now. And the poor trillion cut (a triangular cut often used for side stones)? It’s practically the wallflower of the party; unless it’s used to flank a center diamond, hardly anyone asks for trillions as a centerpiece anymore. This doesn’t mean these cuts aren’t beautiful – they absolutely are, and if you love them, you should rock them proudly. But it’s a reminder that “popular” is often a matter of when and where. Tastes change, sometimes fast. What’s on every jeweler’s shelf in New York might gather dust in, say, a small town elsewhere, and vice versa.
  
• The Lab-Grown & Salt-and-Pepper Revolution. Once upon a time, anything less than “gem-grade” was shuffled off to industry as technical rough. Today that same lower-clarity material – peppered with graphite and feather inclusions – has a stylish new name (salt and pepper diamonds) and a cult following. Add in the free-fall of lab-grown prices, and cutters suddenly have mountains of inexpensive rough at their disposal. When the stone itself isn’t prohibitively valuable, risk-taking blossoms. Faceters can chase an idea, not just carat yield: recut, over-polish, start again if it flops. I’ve watched peppery diamonds turned into wildly asymmetric sculptures – and yes, one was confidently shaped like male genitalia. That’s what happens when the rough is no longer sacred. Cheap rough kills the fear of “wasting” a crystal: just grow another lab stone, or grab another speckled piece from the parcel. Creativity wins. The future of diamond cutting isn’t only lasers or AI; it’s the freedom to play, to fail, and to craft shapes no one has dreamed of before.

From the Workshop: A Local Perspective

Let me share a little insider story. In my region, it’s not traditionally common to splurge on huge flashy diamond rings – and “fancy” shapes (anything other than round) are rarer than you’d think. Most guys sticking to the classics, perhaps an elongated baguette or emerald cut at most, but any bolder shape tends to spook the would-be grooms here. 😉 Cultural preferences run conservative; there’s even a bit of stigma about synthetic (lab-grown) diamonds in engagement rings, so old-school mindsets abound. Yes, but as a jeweler, I love all the fancy cuts and often find myself living vicariously through the internet, where tastes are more adventurous.

One of my go-to sources for the scoop on what’s trending beyond my locale is, believe it or not, Jeweler TikTok – a vibrant community of bench jewelers and gem dealers who share their daily projects. It’s like peeking into dozens of design studios worldwide. A favorite creator of mine, @tiamogemco, often dishes on which stones her clients are (and aren’t) asking for. According to Tia, the least sought-after shapes in her experience right now are you guessed it cushion, princess, and Asscher cuts – once popular, now seeing a lull. 

She even joked that trillion cuts (those triangular gems) are “nobody’s favorite” except as sidekicks to a center stone. That made me chuckle, because I have a soft spot for trillions – they can look stunning as a main stone if you find one of decent size and set it creatively. But alas, they’re wallflowers in the broader market.

On the flip side, what’s flooding my TikTok feed are videos of freshly cut elongated cushions and long radiant cuts. Jewelers are proudly showing off these slender, elongated beauties, often saying things like “look how big this 1.5 carat looks now that it’s elongated!” There’s an excitement around giving the cushion cut a stretched, elegant profile and around radiants that almost look like emerald cuts with extra sparkle

The lesson? Even in parts of the world where tradition rules, the internet is spreading new ideas like wildfire. Today’s fiancés here might still play it safe, but give it a couple of years – I won’t be surprised when someone walks into my shop asking for that TikTok-famous elongated cushion cut they saw online. And I’ll be thrilled to make it happen.

A Cut for Every Story (Conclusion)

Dear reader, if you’ve made it this far, you’re practically a graduate gemologist in the making! 😉 We’ve journeyed from medieval mines to modern-day Pinterest boards, seen how a diamond’s cut can embody the spirit of an era or the personality of a person. The takeaway? There is no one “best” diamond cut – only the one that best tells your story. You now know more than most about what makes each shape special, the trends that ebb and flow, and the little secrets the industry might not tell you outright. So when it comes time to choose (for yourself or your beloved), trust your eye and your heart. Maybe you’ll go for a timeless round brilliant that would make Marcel Tolkowsky proud, or maybe you’ll dare to be different with a marquise that channels French royalty or a cushion that whispers of vintage romance.

Yes, and whichever you choose, wear it with confidence. In a world of ever-changing trends, the real magic of a diamond isn’t just in how it catches the light – it’s in how it celebrates love, individuality, and the continuity of tradition and innovation. Your ring can nod to history and still feel utterly you. So go ahead: be bold, be classic, be trendy, be sentimental. The world of diamond cuts is as vast and varied as the women and men who wear them. And remember, just like a diamond, you’re one of a kind – so choose the cut that makes you shine brightest.

Happy sparkling, and here’s to finding the cut of your dreams! 💎✨

Sources

My personal experience + a billion TikTok videos, Reddit rabbit holes, and all the references cited above.